This Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, there was no doubt that the post-Soviet influence of labels like Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy was present. But aside from a lone designer or two, the early-’90s Russian look now synonymous with the motherland occurred more on the street than on the runway. Instead, many young designers crafted their own identities, and it’s far from the bazaar-plucked aesthetics of their contemporaries. Take the label Saint-Tokyo by St. Petersburg designer Yury Pitenin. Already catching the eye of Lady Gaga, who wore one of his leather body-con dresses a few months ago, Pitenin has a head-turning futuristic style, experiments with prints, and meshes different fabrics. His outerwear is cool, too: He makes a sweet flower print look bad-to-the-bone when he crafts it into the sleeves of a leather biker jacket.
Also, as in the country Georgia, there seems to be a flourishing knitwear scene in Russia, as well. The proof is in Ksenia Seraya, who launched her label in 2013, this season whipping up clingy knit frocks and slouchy trousers in a light technique. On the denim front, St. Petersburg-based sisters Katerina and Vera Viper of the label Vipers managed to sex up a pair of simple jean flares by cutting diamond slits in the back of the knee.